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Tree Planting Fall is for planting. Often heard, but more often
overlooked.
Planting hardy trees and shrubs in the fall of the year can
allow
the plants to form a good root system before they have to
contend with the heat and humidity of our summers. If you
had to
pick the best time to plant a tree, fall and early winter is
it!
November is ideal. As the leaves begin to fall, and the
trees go
dormant, plant away. Plants usually come in one of three forms-container grown,
balled
in burlap or bare root. Today, more and more plants are
being
grown in containers, and container plants can be planted
twelve
months out of the year-provided they are given some care.
Yes,
even in the midst of a horrid July, you can plant trees and
shrubs,
but plan to stand next to them with the garden hose. Balled
in
burlap and bare root plants should be planted while they are
dormant. Regardless of what form they come in, planting in
the
dormant season, (which is beginning) puts less stress on the
newly planted plants. There is usually ample natural
moisture,
which allows the new plants to begin forming roots without
much
care from us. Do pay attention to the weather and if we go
without natural rainfall for several weeks, you will need to
water,
even when it is cold. Choose your plants wisely. When planting trees, look up.
Don't
plant under or near power lines. Give the tree ample room to
form
its natural shape and canopy. Today, many power lines and
cables
are being put underground. Know where these lines run before
you begin digging. Consider the width of a mature tree as
well.
Normally we don't want to plant a shade tree any closer than
fifteen feet from the foundation of the building. Choose plants that take the conditions you have. If you have
a
moist boggy soil, go with plants that like moisture.
Likewise don't
put something that likes water, such as a River Birch in a
dry,
rocky site. Working within the parameters you have, make
life a
lot easier on you and the tree. There are many misconceptions about planting trees or the
way a
trees root system grows. Some people claim that the trees
root
system, mirrors their top growth. Not true. Most plants have
the
majority of their root system in the top six to twelve
inches of the
soil-even trees. The entire root systems of most trees can
be
found within three feet of soil. The spread of the root
system
however, can be very extensive, often extending 2-3 times
the
spread of the crown. When planting a new tree, digging holes
to
China isn't helping anyone-except perhaps the chiropractor.
If
possible, dig a hole a minimum of three times as wide as the
plants root ball, but only as deep as the root ball is.
Don't replace
the existing soil. Many gardeners throw away the rocky, poor
soil,
and backfill with potting soil or other rich amendment. That
is not
going to help the plant at all. Instead, it will
containerize the plant
in the ground, or create a swimming pool-either situation is
not
good for you tree. You can amend the fill by mixing organic
matter with the existing soil. By amending a wide area and
digging a wide berth, the root system will be encouraged to
spread into the surrounding soil. If all you do is amend a
hole
large enough to plant in, you containerize the plant in the
ground.
Where would you rather grow, in the nice rich potting soil
in the
hole or the pitiful rocky clay surrounding it? If you can't
amend a
wide area, don't amend at all. Make sure the depth of the
hole is
only as deep as the root ball, or slightly shallower. You
need to
allow for some natural settling of the soil, and you don't
want to
bury the plant too deep. The majority of the roots on the
newly
planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If
the tree is
planted too deep, new roots will have difficulty developing
due to
a lack of oxygen. No fertilization should be used at
planting. You
want the root system to settle in and begin to grow the
first
season. Top growth can be more of an issue in year two. Once the tree is planted, apply mulch around the tree to a
depth
of two to four inches. Allow some space between the mulch
and
the stem of the tree. You don't want those volcano mulch
beds
often seen around town. I often refer to them as the "bed
and
breakfasts" for rodents. Mice or voles can live in the nice
moist,
warm mulch bed, and reach over and chew on the trunk of the
tree all winter long. Leaving that air pocket keeps moisture
away
from the trunk of the tree. Mulch is important because it moderates soil moisture and
temperature, it looks more attractive and keeps weeds away,
and
it keeps plant competition away. Lawns do compete with the
roots
of trees for water and nutrients, and if the lawn was there
first, it
can out compete those new tree roots. Mulching in a wide
berth,
also can prevent lawnmower and weed-eater damage
often done to the base of trees. Once planted water is the most important factor for success.
Too
much or too little can both lead to death. Make sure the
site is
well drained and water deeply to encourage root formation. If the tree is structurally sound, staking should not be
necessary.
Studies have shown that trees will get established faster
and have
a more stable trunk if they are not staked. However, if you
have a
tall or large tree with a fairly small root system, or live
in an area
with high winds, or have trees that have suffered storm
damage,
occasionally staking is needed. If staking is needed, use
two or
three stakes used with a flexible tie material. You want to
allow
some natural movement, so don't stake too tightly. Any ties
that
are in contact with the tree should be flexible, or wrapped
in a
piece of hose tubing. You don't want to cut or wound the
trunk of
your tree with the support. Remove any staking and ties
after the
first year of growth. Trees provide us with shade-a much cherished commodity in
the
summer. With proper planting, they will establish themselves
quickly, and begin a long and prosperous life. If you need
new
trees in your landscape, now is a wonderful time to plant.
Continued
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